Here is a short list of what can and cannot be given to our birds as food. You can read about each product separately in separate articles on this site. So, we list:
It is impossible:
- salty;
- fried;
- smoked;
- oily;
- spoiled;
- sweet;
- milk;
- sausage and finished meat and fish products;
- canned products;
- exotic fruits and vegetables;
- store juices;
- alcoholic and carbonated drinks;
Feeding a raven chick ..
It is convenient to feed healthy chicks with small lumps of the feed mixture - mash mats, wetted from the outside for easy swallowing. Food is laid deep in the open beak of the chick, which causes a swallowing reflex.
Feeding weakened and sick chicks who refuse to feed should be made using a syringe with a rubber nozzle (adapter from the system) so as not to injure its pharynx when the bird jerks. All food should be warmed up to 36-37 * C. Check the temperature by applying a syringe with a mixture to the back of the wrist - if the temperature is the same, or slightly higher than the temperature of a person,
then you can feed.
Chicks are fed with easily digestible feeds, such as:
- baby food (without salt and sugar): baby dairy-free cereals from buckwheat, vegetable purees (carrots, pumpkin, apple);
- children's pastes from turkey, chicken or beef;
- crushed boiled chicken offal: heart, liver;
- boiled minced chicken, turkey and veal;
- shredded cereal mixtures of cereals requiring cooking (oat, wheat, millet, barley, rye, corn), boiled with boiling water to a state of liquid porridge and cooled to the desired temperature;
- non-sour fat-free cottage cheese, a good feed additive rich in nitrogenous substances;
- hard boiled egg;
- animal feed: meat and bone meal, fish meal, pharmacy yeast without additives (no more than 5% of the diet);
- as natural vitamins and minerals - finely chopped germinated grain;
- From a weekly age, grated on a fine grater and squeezed carrots and apple are mixed.
Approximate main nestling for chicks:
- steamed mixture of flakes (the more items, the better) - 30%,
- not sour fat-free cottage cheese - 10%,
- children's paste, minced meat or offal - 40%,
- crushed germinated grain - 10%,
- squeezed finely grated fruit and vegetable mixture (apple, carrot,
beets) - 10%.
The mixture should always be freshly prepared. It is advisable to include such
additives, like finely chopped boiled egg (not more than 10% of the total
volume of the stirrer), yeast or meat and bone meal (not more than 5% of the stirrer).
Feeding the cages.
For cages (after 8 weeks) you can use all the feeds suitable for adult corvids, but they must be crushed.
Feeding adult birds.
Approximate main mash:
- boiled buckwheat, brown rice (or steamed cereal flakes) - 30%;
- finely chopped boiled low-fat offal (or minced meat) - 30%;
- non-sour fat-free cottage cheese - 20%;
- crushed germinated grain - 10%
- squeezed grated fruit and vegetable mixture - 10%.
Nutrition during molting.
In the period of feather replacement, 5-8% of oilseeds are included in the diet, which maintains the brightness and luster of plumage.
Drinking water..
Certain requirements are also needed with respect to tap water, which after decontamination contains a small amount of chlorine. Soldering over a long period of such water is dangerous for the chicks. To remove chlorine, water is maintained for two days in an open container. Water should be given in sufficient quantity and appropriate temperature - 28-20 * С, and for chicks and sick animals - 24-26 * С.
Of course, filtered water, which should have the same temperature standards, is welcome. It is also recommended to use bottled water for babies or good table water, such as Nutrilak.
A standard blender is the main element of poultry feeding.
The foundation:
- Buckwheat done
- Brown rice
- Oatmeal with bran, requiring cooking
- Other cereals, but not instant and not rye
pour boiling water and cook. Leave under the lid.
Can add:
- Perlovka
- millet
Fruit and vegetable puree:
- Apple
- Carrot
peel, scald and grate.
Sources of protein:
- beef
- poultry meat
- Low-fat fish
Add boiled and better in the form of minced meat - so the bird is more difficult to choose. These products should make up about 20% of the total mix.
Also:
- Chicken eggs
1/2 twice a week.
- Cottage cheese 0%, not sour
one spoon two to three times a week.
- Dry dog \u200b\u200bfood class "Premium"
About 10% of the volume of the stirrer. Pre-crushed or soaked.
In addition to the main feed, the corvids can offer:
- Lean cookies - without salt, oil and sugar
- Cereal bread - without the same.
- Quail eggs 2-3 per week, including raw
- Shrimp or a piece of squid, cooked without salt
- Bones from meat or chicken, cooked without salt and not chopped
- Fruit without a peel - peach, apricot, banana, pear
Just do not give them in large quantities to avoid diarrhea.
Essential Dietary Supplements:
- Sepia - a source of calcium with high bioavailability,
do not give the bird to nibble it. Again, everything can end with diarrhea and salivation.
It’s better to grind a little bit in a mess.
- Sea kale (dried kelp) - pet store only
Natural source of vitamins, iodine and other trace elements. For a small pinch in a mash, according to the instructions on the package or two or three times a week constantly.
“Harvesting seaweed is also only better.” The composition is even richer, but it is not found in all pet stores.
(These supplements will especially appeal to opponents of synthetic vitamins.)
Jackdaws and rooks eat well feed insects, which can be found in pet stores.
Ravens need to add meat on bones or carcasses of feed animals (from trusted suppliers) to the diet, as in nature, the raven’s diet is more “meaty,”
than other corvids.
Perhaps it makes sense to use imported high-quality feed for insectivorous birds as an additive to the diet of corvids.
Taken from the site http://ptic.ru//
This beautiful and proud bird can truly become a true friend. Her intelligence exceeds the intelligence of a dog, cat and is comparable to the ability of a horse or a dolphin. A raven, for example, can use a wand to get food near the cage. He will overpower and over-dried bread, soaking it in water. Able to guess this bird and throw stones in a narrow vase until then, until the water becomes available to her for drinking.
How not to confuse the raven and raven chicks?
However, instead of the expected crow, you may have a bird from the same family with a consonant name - a crow. How to distinguish a raven chick from a raven? The raven is larger, it has a wedge-shaped tail (the crow has a flat one). The plumage on the raven's goiter is disheveled, while on the raven it is smooth. The color of the raven's chick is the same as that of an adult bird. The crow “croaks” articulating correctly, while the raven makes another sound — it snaps.
And they differ among themselves purely in character: like a devoted knight and a miserable thief. It is no coincidence that we used the word “knight” in the context of the bird’s name “raven”, since the British have been honoring and keeping six ranked Ravens of the Tower Fortress for many centuries, since the time of King Charles II.
How to avoid a misunderstanding by unexpectedly growing a crow? The answer is simple: either take a raven chick in the nursery, or buy from a seller who has a good reputation.
We are far from thinking that in May you will be able to personally get into the thicket of the forest and pick up a three-week-old chick from a raven’s nest at a great height. Moreover, even if you do such a feat, you will inevitably be attacked by his parents. And an adult raven, having dispersed in flight, as you know, with a beak blow can very well kill a fox. Obviously, the future owner of the chick is wiser to avoid such injuries.
Therefore, we focus on the purchase of poultry by announcement. The market price of a raven nestling in the Moscow markets is $ 100.
At what age are raven chicks brought up?
The raven is immeasurably devoted to only one person whom he considers to be the master, but simply reconciles himself with other cohabitants. He does not like small children and pets, jealous of the owner.
For taming, it is best to take a two to three week old bird. Females are easier trained and less impulsive. We recommend them to beginners. The specialist distinguishes them at this age solely in appearance. Classes are conducted according to the classical method for birds of prey. If you buy raven chicks from a breeder, the borderline age of purchase is 2–3 months of age.
Six months later, the chick is identical in size to an adult bird. At this age, he is already difficult to train. And an adult raven, starting at the age of one, is already unsuitable for living at home. By the way, the bird is considered finally formed only at the age of three.
The raven nestling (you can see the photo of the three-week-old runaway in the illustration) becomes a poultry due to persistent taming and training. Unfortunately, most people who decide to raise this bird act recklessly, believing that from a chick of a proud bird they will get a stylized likeness of a parrot.
What should be prepared for the owner of the raven chick?
A raven is two in one: a predator and a talking, intelligent, loving master bird. Yes, that's only if you want to become its owner, it is not enough that formally a raven chick settles in your home. The owner should love him actively, mess with him (i.e., train, train, communicate) daily for two to three hours a day.
Raven is a friend. If you manage to train him, he will give you a lot of positive, but also ask you a lot. You as the owner for this friendship will have to sacrifice ... at least one room in the apartment. Be sure, for a year of keeping a crow in it, it will be prepared by a bird for repair.
A raven and a cage are incompatible things: an impulsive bird breaks feathers in it. If it is not possible to allocate a "personal room" to the bird, you can equip an aviary (at least 2 x 2 m). A container for bathing birds and toys should be included in it.
When is a crow undesirable?
It is contraindicated to start this bird in families with small children! It is undesirable to have other animals (dogs, cats) in the house. The adult raven is a bird with a character. He will be jealous of their master and even attack the "competitors".
It is not enough for the bird owner to proceed solely from mercy, thinking about how to get out the raven chick. It is equally important to ask yourself the second question: “Can I raise a noble hand raven?”
It is not recommended to keep a bird at home without taking time to train it. In this case, the raven does not feel the owner and begins to compete with domestic ones in its own way, turning into a real punishment, practicing all sorts of dirty tricks:
- he will consider not only his room, but his whole apartment as his territory (torn documents, distorted wallpapers, cornices, baseboards, household utensils, furniture);
- he will not be accustomed to locally relieve himself;
- he will attack your guests.
To let loose a bird not trained by adult crows is a sure way to kill it. Domestic raven perishes in the wild.
If, having familiarized yourself with our warning, you stayed at your will and continue to solve the puzzle “How to find a raven chick?”, Then the following information is for you.
Foundling chicks
However, there are different cases. Sometimes the crow-yellowhorns of the raven are found to have fallen from the nest in April-May. Despite the height of the fall, some of them are not crippled.
A raven chick is born in April. Being a week old, he even does not resemble a bird very much: his eyes are not open, his naked body, only on his neck and head - a fluff. Only in the second week will the tiny rods of future flight feathers appear and eyes open.
He is weak, his body is not covered with feathers. He is not able to maintain the balance of heat of his body. The nutrition period for him during the first week is about one and a half hours during daylight hours. The defenseless and completely dependent on the care of the raven chick (the photo at the beginning of the article caught this moment) periodically squeaks - so he extorts food.
However, the bird will begin to see only after three weeks.
The temperature regime of the first week
If such a bird fell out of the nest, and after weighing all the pros and cons, you made a desperate decision to grow it, then for this you need to take a month's vacation. In the first week, an impromptu home incubator will have to be equipped. A raven's chick is placed in a shoe box, which is lined with soft cloth at the bottom, and covered with a thin cloth from above. From above, the incandescent lamp turns on. The optimum heating should be monitored:
- increase it if the bird trembles;
- ventilate the box if it is gasping for air.
Temperature regulation in the second week
After the appearance of feathers (in the second week), the temperature regime is simplified. Just watch during the day so that the temperature in the room where the raven chick is located is maintained at about 20 degrees Celsius. At night, the home incubator should still be heated.
As the fluff covers the entire body of the bird, you can remove the upper canvas. Next, we briefly consider the nutritional organization of the raven chick, noting the importance of the presence of pure non-chlorinated water in the aviary and adding calcium (ground shell) to the food to form a full plumage.
Yellowhorn Chick Feeding
The question of how to feed a raven's chick at home has two different answers: for a yellowhorn and a fowl.
The yellowfish is fed with tweezers. Food is served from top to bottom. In this case, a reflex triggers: he lifts his head and opens his beak. The food itself is a mishmash. If we are talking about nursing a sick chick, then he is fed from a syringe, on which a rubber nozzle is put on.
- meat offal (or pate, or minced meat) - 40%;
- steamed finely cut flakes (crushed - wheat, barley, millet, oat, corn, rye) - 30%;
- low-fat cottage cheese - 10%;
- sprouted grain in a finely chopped form - 10%;
- grated apple, beets, carrots - 10%.
Feeding Baby Chick
Imagine one of the recipes showing how to feed a raven chick that has become a fly. This is also a mishmash, only a slightly different consistency, also suitable for adult birds:
- cereal flakes, boiled buckwheat or boiled brown rice - 30%;
- finely chopped meat offal - 30%;
- fat-free cottage cheese - 20%;
- grated pressed apple, carrot, beetroot - 10%;
- sprouted grain finely chopped - 10%.
Flying
We will illuminate this difficult question thesisally.
- Raven chicks are taught to fly in the classics of training of hunting birds with the observance of the necessary details (additive, glove, etc.). This technique is fully competent in our case.
- During raven training, flight should minimize the chance of non-return. Therefore, the area for the implementation of the natural needs of birds is better to choose suburban fields. In a city with its traffic and noise, it is likely that an inexperienced raven will get lost.
We teach the raven chick to speak
If the parrot perceives the female timbre of voice better, then the raven practically does not respond to it. But hoarse, creaky male overtones are his element. He repeats not only a creak, a dog barking, a hoarse male laugh, but also shows good speech abilities. Similar abilities of another raven bird - rook - was described by Mikhail Mikhailovich Prishvin in the story of the same name.
Where to begin? Firstly, we recommend calling the raven that way, he could easily call himself, for example, Karl. Secondly, when entering and leaving, pronounce standard phrases ("Hello", "Bye"). Start by teaching the raven how to pronounce these words, then you can start the phrases.
He remembers whole sentences no worse than a parrot, but pronounces them (this is confirmed by experts) more consciously. To do this, the owner should talk with him.
Instead of a conclusion
You must admit that there is something special and noble in the raven - one of the most difficult birds for domestic keeping.
A raven chick is not a spineless toy, it is a friend for an adult, making adjustments to the rhythm of his life. But if you really manage to grow a friend out of him, he will worthily answer you with love and devotion for many years.
There are always 2 bowls in the cage for constant feed (about 100 g) and mineral top dressing. As a drinking bowl, it is good to use a 0.5 liter jar, which must be tied to the cell grid. The feeders need to be firmly fixed, otherwise the crow will turn them over.
To grind beak and raven's claws it is necessary to have access to the block (better - birch, linden). Regrowing claws can be cut with nippers or a claw cutter. Beak - it is better to "remove" a nail file. If the floor (as a cover it is better to use hay, lignin) or the pole is hard (they can be wrapped with lignin, flannel, but this is not very hygienic), then the so-called naminas will appear on the legs of the bird. Every day, a bowl with a bait and a large container of water are put in a cage for bathing.
Soft food. Squeeze low-fat cottage cheese or dry in the oven. Mix with semolina, oatmeal or millet (about 1/3 of the cottage cheese). Sprinkle the mixture with grass seeds (dandelion, nettle, etc.), chopped "hay" (clover, nettle leaf), dry gammarus.
Mineral nutrition. Mix in equal proportions the crushed shell of a hard-boiled egg, crushed brick, crushed charcoal, steamed soil, calcined river sand, and burnt bone. A crow will feel better if it receives a few small pebbles, touring, like all gnawing birds. Once a week, several crystals of sodium chloride can be dissolved in a drinker. Ready-made mineral supplements are now on sale.
If you are sure that chicken eggs are not affected by salmonella, then the egg is better to give whole and raw. The bird will carefully break it and “drink” it, carefully collecting it with its beak, like a scoop. (Even better if it is a quail testicle). She uses a shell as a toy, which she will later peck and eat. If a little “smeared” egg remains in the feeder, white bread can be crushed there. A hard-boiled egg needs to be chopped, mixed with grated white cracker, add squeezed grated carrots or cabbage (can simmer), rose hips, dried blueberries, raspberries, etc., passed through the coffee grinder. If the bird does not like such a mixture, then it is enough to sprinkle it with sugar slightly. True, the crow likes the egg yolk more ...
Live feed. I really like the crow to “catch” wood lice and ground beetles collected at the cottage in a jar (if you are sure that the beetle is not poisonous). She will not refuse grasshoppers, soft green caterpillars, maggot or bloodworms, and ant eggs. However, a bloodworm can be poisoned. She most often rejects earthworms.
It is better to give boiled meat (lamb beef), poultry meat, "ventricle" - half-boiled. From offal, even boiled (light), the crow may have diarrhea. Fish is also better not to give. As a treat, you can please the bird with a herring head, it is better not to abuse smoked meats. As a treat, my Path was perceived by eyes taken out from chicken heads and fish.
She eats any friable cereals, boiled pasta or vermicelli - with dandelion greens, woodlice, sprouted oats, stewed vegetables. Without abuse - white bread soaked in sweet tea or milk, mashed potatoes.
"Seasonal treat". In winter - once a week a little (at the tip of a knife) of honey or 2-3 grains of flower pollen dissolves in a drinker. Sprouted wheat grains to a white sprout. He won’t eat it - they must be turned in a meat grinder, sweetened with honey and granulated sugar. Offer the bird grated squeezed carrots or boiled grated beets with hercules and vegetable oil. It is very good to add the crushed walnut kernel. In the spring - the appeared larch green with a sprig. Or this greens will have to be chopped and added to any porridge, a mash, etc. In summer and autumn - berries, worms, porcini mushrooms, butterfish, watermelon (without peel), melon, grapes. You can give peas and young beans, preferably in pods. It would be nice to please the bird with rotten rotten, captured from the forest. At the same time, it is necessary to prepare for the winter seeds of dandelion, plantain, woodlice, dry meadow clover and nettle.
You can simply alternate a chicken egg, meat, porridge, vegetables, without forgetting about the forgiven grain and greens. (During molting, nutrition should be especially enriched with calcium, vitamins. A few drops of fish oil, tocopherol are given. Dried gammarus is added).
Since the crow is an exceptionally active bird, it needs a lot of toys when kept in a cage. Puzzle toys. Half-empty and ajar matchbox (matches better be burnt or without sulfur head). Or firmly attach the linen gum at one end to the cage. To the other end - with a "bow" drying or a dry crust of black bread. Or in a handkerchief or sock, tie a piece of sugar into a knot, matchbox. Or an old boot with laces. Toys are victims. A comb of a share of hair, a rubber squeaker are ideal for “chasing”. The bird will drive such objects around the apartment to the point of exhaustion. You can also give her a dryer or bread crust, but with each peck, do not forget to "yak!" Useful toys. This is the aforementioned “slice” vegetables. Also, the crow will be happy to solve logical problems, for example, from a large box to extract the ball hidden there. True, the crow is a very touchy bird; it can count the delicacy hidden from it as a feeder or a feeder for bullying. Then she will go into a corner and sit there, crested and unfriendly. It is very useful to take a walk outside with a bird. She will not leave you anywhere or fly away. But she will find something edible for herself, communicate with the surrounding crows and jackdaws (who will then desperately scold you), take the sun and air baths so necessary for her. In the summer, swimming in anthills will be very beneficial for her health. You don’t need to protect the raven from cats - after 1-2 meetings, the nearby “murks” will avoid the bird by getting to know its powerful beak, but it’s better to drive away large dogs yourself.
In summer, it is better to put the cage on the balcony, covering it from direct sunlight, rain and drafts. I would like to note that the crow is a very tender and sensitive bird. My flightless crow lived almost freely. She had to buy a cage when she began to go blind in her old age, so as not to get lost in the apartment and easily found food and water.
Julia Grigorieva, Veliky Novgorod, The Cat and Dog newspaper 1999 - 10
Voronenka is probably 1.5 - 2 months old, a mandatory indication of years is simply requested, and 0 is not taken into account. Hello. Tell me what to do with a funnel? I live near the forest, crows always live on the trees outside the garden and raise chicks, they know us, therefore they are friendly. Yesterday I found a funnel, about the size of a pigeon, that walked out under a tall Christmas tree with their nest, about the size of a pigeon, it walks not badly, but basically it doesn’t move, it doesn’t know how to fly, its wings and tail are still short, but it doesn’t hurt the whole. I was advised to take him to the house so that the cats would not find him, to feed him. When the crows began to take him away, they started circling and screaming. She brought it to the house (she wore it only with gloves, so the smell of a person probably did not stay on it). I tried to feed the yolk and bread dissolved in water, he spat out almost everything, asked for a worm, but could not throw it in the throat, crows flew in and watched him outside the house. In the evening, we decided to carry him back to that tree, because I read on the forums that the crows of the fallen children are fed on the ground, and the crow can climb into the nest on the tree themselves. This morning I heard a black crow screaming loudly, found it not far from that tree, sat not moving, only the crows flew at me, and they screamed as soon as I left the house when I was far away, and they were screaming at me, or now my enemy consider whether they asked for help. Tell me what to do with a funnel? Very sorry, I'm afraid that they will not feed him and he will die.
Hello!
In the first week from birth, chicks are not able to fully maintain body temperature and in nature, parents regularly heat them or, conversely, cool them. Subcooling and overheating are dangerous for chicks. If you took such a chick, then you will need to heat it, avoiding overheating. The nestling should be placed in a small box (for a gray crow nestling - at least 15x15 cm, the height of the edges is 3-5 cm) or a pot, lining the inside with a cloth (make sure that there are no loose strings in which the nestling can become tangled), be sure to cover it from above with a thin cloth or handkerchief, and above this “nest”, at a height inaccessible to the chick, place an incandescent lamp, or place an adjustable heating pad from below. Bottom heating is more efficient, but also more dangerous, because it’s easier to overheat the chick.
The temperature in the nest should be between 30-33 degrees. After 7-10 days from birth, when the hens of feathers appear hemp feathers, they do not need heating, but the air temperature should be at least 20 degrees. If the house is colder, then use weak heating. It is better to stop heating gradually - first stop the daytime heating, and after 2-3 days and night. However, until the nestling has enough downy feathers, be sure to cover your “nest" with fabric from above.
Watch not only the thermometer, but also the behavior of the chick - the chick starts to tremble when it gets cold, and when it overheats, it begins to breathe more often, it becomes restless and can drop the tissue that covers it from above, and breathing with an open beak is a sign of quite a strong overheating. When overheating, turn off the heaters and temporarily remove the "cover".
When and how to feed?
In the first 7-10 days, the chicks are fed every 1.5-2 hours, with a break for the night from 0:00 to 6:00. With the cessation of heating, feeding is reduced. It should be remembered that if a very hungry chick opens its beak for feeding as soon as it senses your presence (until it opens its eyes), then it is necessary to give a command to the not very hungry one. The crow's nestling is a croaking, not necessarily close to the original, but something similar, for example, a sharp, loud hoarse “A!”, Then the nestling will get used to and will open its beak to any sound you make.
Bird is seen by droppings
It should be remembered that the rectum and chick's bladder are emptied directly during feeding, with the first pieces of food. The chick begins to characteristically shake the tail and lift it up so that the litter falls out of the nest. In your artificial nest, the walls may be higher than that of the real one, so as soon as you notice the readiness of the chick, substitute him with a piece of pre-prepared toilet paper and catch the litter in it. At night, the chick is deprived of such care and you will have to change the litter in the “nest” if the sides of the nest are too high for the chick, but if the chick can cope with dropping the litter “overboard”, you need to think in advance what you can and cannot put the nest on when there is no supervision.
What to feed?
Feeding raven chicks is conveniently done using wet feed mixtures - mash mats, made mostly from grated carrots. Carrots are rubbed on a fine or medium grater, the proportion of carrots in the feed is 30-50%, depending on other components. The food should never be sticky. Lumps of such food can stick together in the throat of a chick and it will be extremely difficult for him to swallow such a lump. The food should not stick to the fingers and should be soft enough so that the chick could stretch the lump with its beak without strain.
Carrots can be partially or completely replaced with turnips or rutabaga. Carrots are needed not only as a source of nutrients, but also as a moisturizing component. If the mixture comes out thick and sticky - add carrots or its substitutes.
The second component of the mash is protein, up to 30%, can consist of low-fat cottage cheese, hard-boiled egg yolks, minced meat, fish, dry ground gammarus, ant eggs, flour worms, as well as protein-rich cereals.
Vitamin and mineral supplements - crushed eggshell or tablets of calcium gluconate / glycerophosphate, ground limestone, chalk are necessary for chicks to grow feathers and strengthen bones. Bone meal, as a source of phosphorus, is also added to the feed. Herbal flour, crushed sunflower, crushed sprouted seeds of wheat and oats, infant formula, ready-made vitamin preparations are also used. You need to be careful with vitamin preparations - an overdose of vitamins is just as undesirable as a deficiency, and overdosing a preparation for a chick, in which you do not know the mass, can be done by uncontrollably applying "human" forms of vitamin production. Although for birds, especially for large ones, an overdose of vitamins is not so easy to cause, because the birds have a very intense metabolism, and it is especially intense in the chicks. Thus, the doses of vitamins for birds are usually equal to the doses of the average dog. And if there are signs of hypovitaminosis, then a prophylactic dose is needed, but a therapeutic dose, which is 2-3 times more.
Hypovitaminosis in chicks must be prevented immediately. Be sure to provide the chick with vitamin D (D3), especially if it is rarely in the sun. If the chick does not stand up by the age of 5 weeks, this may be the result of hypovitaminosis D. If the chick has improperly set or bent fingers, then we can think of a lack of vitamin B2 (riboflavin). Vitamin D is included in the anti-rickets vitamin mixes, the last name usually comes to pet store sellers faster. Riboflavin, as well as other vitamins, can be bought in a pharmacy and given a bird dosage, for example, riboflavin for treating large birds needs 0.003-0.005 grams per day, for 2-3 weeks, if you bought tablets at 0.002, then the bird have to eat 2 tablets every day. Most vitamins can be mixed with food, but not with hot food.
In addition to the mash, you can feed the birds with small lumps of friable cottage cheese, hard-boiled eggs, bread soaked in milk, undercooked rice, pieces of fish and meat, cod liver. In nature, crows, rooks, jackdaws feed the chicks with earthworms, sometimes mice.
Do I need to drink?
Some authors describe the method of feeding chicks only with liquid feeds, and some do not recommend feeding chicks at all, because fluid may enter the respiratory tract.
Indeed, the liquid can do this, especially in an inexperienced person in the feeding of chicks. Therefore, it’s safer to just give the birds wet food or slices of white bread soaked in water or milk. Fluids from the feed will be enough for the chicks. Water for the chick can be set when he begins to feed on his own, then he will deal with his needs for fluids.
Health to your pets!
Regards, Team Vet Practice"
In modern life, people are used to having different animals. Most often these are dogs and cats, less often parrots and fish. But recently, exotic pets are increasingly appearing in homes. Some people pick up the nestlings that have fallen from the nest and don’t know how to feed a crow or a lamb. If you do it wrong, the pet will die. It is on nutrition that the well-being and growth of the chick depends.
Before feeding the crow or pigeon, make sure that the species identification is correct. Chicks They see fluff. Most often come across fights, which people usually save. Such chicks differ little from adults. Only their eyes are bluish in color, and the corners of their beak are yellow. Photos of the blub will help you decide. Before picking up the chicks, think carefully: will you cope with their feeding? Indeed, even if they die, this is a normal process in nature. If you "save" the chicks, then you will not be allowed to let them out. Therefore, you will need to decide immediately where you will attach the birds. Zoos, as a rule, do not take animals from the population. Therefore, you will either have to leave them to yourself, or look for other owners.
So, what to feed the crows? It should be immediately understood that in no case should they be given food from their table! It is filled with spices, and so on. All this not only harms the chicks, but can also lead to their death. There is a stereotype in society that birds can and should be given bread. But this is not so. Bakery products do not provide any nutrients, but bring a feeling of false satiety.
Therefore, before feeding crow, make sure that the product is useful. belong to predators, so they need protein feed. For example, you can give low-fat cottage cheese. In addition, you need to boil lean meat and grate it. Add the resulting mixture to the curd and mix. Then roll the resulting mass into small balls and give them to the chick. Teach that while the bird is small, it eats often. Therefore, you will have to be constantly there, including at night.
How to feed the crows when they grow up? It will not be superfluous to give them insects. Especially alive. They will be interested in catching them. In the country, you can catch wood lice and
ground beetles. You can also try to find maggots, green caterpillars, bloodworms, ant eggs. Birds eat these insects with great pleasure. Adult crows can be given raw chicken eggs. They themselves can carefully break it and drink the contents. But you can give it if you are sure that they are not infected with salmonella.
It’s not enough to know how to feed the crows, you need to properly maintain them. To do this, it is enough to make an aviary. You can do it yourself or buy a large cage in a pet store. This is a necessary measure, otherwise the birds will spoil the whole apartment and spoil things. Alternatively, you can keep them on. In the future, they can be accustomed to walking on the street. In general, crows are reasonably smart birds and easily trained. To do this, the owner requires a lot of effort and patience. But as a result, he will have a great pet.